In front of a popular restaurant, a line of customers waits for
taxis. And wait. Most of the cabs are full.
That's nothing unusual in this city of 4 million people. But it's 2:30
in the morning.
Visitors to the Olympic Games may leave disappointed if they see Athens
only through the eyes of the typical tourist, who makes a beeline for the
islands after the obligatory visit to the Acropolis and the quaint but
predictable Plaka district.
To fully appreciate and discover Athens' many charms, do as the Greeks
do: Venture out into the neighborhoods, find the packed nightclubs, eat at
one of the innumerable restaurants tucked in the most unlikely places, or
see Hollywood stars under real stars in a romantic outdoor cinema.
The Greek capital is named for the ancient goddess Athena, whose
favorite animal was the owl. It's a fitting symbol for the city's
nocturnal nature, which often culminates in summer with a bleary-eyed rush
hour just before dawn.
As native Athenian Panos Demestiha observed: "Athens by day is
unlivable, but it's magical at night."
Athenians cope with notorious traffic
congestion, strewn trash, diminishing green space, ripped up and
dusty streets and miles of drab apartment blocks. City officials are using
the momentum of the August 13-29 Olympics to fix some of these
long-ignored problems and make city life more bearable.
But the eclectic neighborhoods and intense
nightlife -- along with lounging in cafes or on the beach -- show Athens
to be more than its reputation as a sad modern city with a glorious
past.
More than ever, it's now easier to see the hidden Athens with the
extended subway system and new tram.
"In Greece, people have a quality of life. People here live
beautifully," said Otto Rehhagel, the German coach of the Greek national
soccer team that made history by beating incredible odds to win the
European championship on July 4.
(CNN)
